![]() ![]() Also use this method to release and lift clay to prevent distorting your cut shapes. ![]() To release it, use a tissue blade – held on a 45 O angle, pressing down towards the work surface, slide under the clay, dragging the blade towards you. Clay will stick to your work surface (tile, work mat, table etc).Continue until the clay, when folded in half as in figure 4, has no cracks appearing down the fold line.Always placing the folded edge first into the machine. Roll, fold and roll again on the thickest setting.Place the folded edge into the machine first. Set back on the second thickest setting.Roll through the third thickest setting.Roll through the second thickest setting.Roll through the thickest setting on the pasta machine.Using an acrylic roller, roll until it is almost thin enough to go through the thickest setting on the pasta machine.Then further on the journey, a machine added to the pasta machine (that rolls much faster than you can crank the handle) will become your best friend in the studio! Especially useful for those with hand health problems. As your polymer journey continues, a pasta machine for rolling clay will become a favourite piece of studio equipment. It is a universally used polymer clay measurement. ![]() Many tutorials describe the thickness of clay for a project by “how many cards thick” the clay should be rolled. To roll even sheets using an acrylic roller, use the same number of cards (from a pack of cards) on each side of the sheet of clay. Rolling evenly thick sheets with a pasta machine is easy. You will need to slice, stack and roll 6 or more times until you can bend the clay without it cracking on the fold line, (Figure 4).Stack one half of the clay on top of the other.Note: The clay can be folded instead of slicing in half but as folding can trap air, we recommend begin by slicing. See tip a) below for how to release clay from the work surface. Using an acrylic roller, roll until it is 2-3mm thick.(Figure 2).(Don’t worry if you can’t cut an even slice, neither can I). Cut a slice from the block of clay (either side depending on how much you wish to work with) approximately 6- 8mm thick.Whether a soft or hard brand of clay, the following method (used by professional polymer clay artists) is recommended. While it’s not incorrect to condition softer clay by kneading in the hands, when you begin working with larger quantities of clay, you will want a quicker method of conditioning as you can only knead a small amount at a time. The reason why many professional artists prefer these brands. They are designed that way because once conditioned they are easier to work with than softer clays. If not conditioned sufficiently, finished pieces will be brittle and break easily Please note: KATO POLYCLAY and FIMO PROFESSIONAL are firmer clays and CANNOT BE CONDITIONED BY KNEADING. HOW TO CONDITION POLYMER CLAY Conditioning polymer clay before use is essential. ![]()
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